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I don't know anything about adjusting for elevation, other than to test when you get there. You should be able to tell if it is running right. Warm it up when you get there, then stop and put in a new plug in. If you have the ability to cut the plug thread off and inspect, do a fast run and cut power and inspect the base of the ceramic on the plug. You want a dark ring (about the color of wet cardboard) around the base of the ceramic. I don't have any way to do that, so I just ride for 10 minutes or so and listen to the engine, see how it feels and then stop and look at the plug. I like a light coffee color on the ceramic. I also glance behind me when I gun the throttle a few times as I'm riding and during a short stint wide open hoping to see a little smoke. I like it to be just a tad rich for safety. I also feel the cylinder after I stop riding to see if it seems unusually hot (lean). I basically feel for a smooth range of power, without any hiccups or jerks during power transition. I also like just a tiny bit of bog when I gun the throttle--too crisp could mean too lean. As for listening, I basically listen for pinging. I like to do this by climbing a hill in second or third gear after engine is good and warmed up.
On the 36mm Mikuni, on my MR (currently with a CR cylinder, so the only real difference is heavier flywheel right now) my setup is this:
35 pilot (get a 40 too)
6f5 needle (but I'd get a 6f4 too and maybe a 6DH2 cause if you find you're running lean, you want immediate options to switch to)
159Q4 needle jet
270 main (I'd get 250-310 to play with)
I hope others might chime in with suggestions, but I found little help when looking for recommendations. I think a lot of people may not have written stuff down.
Every bike is a little different, so good luck. Some people have had great luck with buying "spec" carbs. I did not and have had to switch a lot of brass.
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