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Perfect timing - I just did this on Friday. Assuming that the tab wasn't unbent perfectly flat (I try to leave a little bend in it if possible), you may be able to grab an edge of the tab with one jaw of a large set of ChannelLocks, put the other jaw on the far side of the nut, and squeeze gently just enough to pull up the tab edge a little. Then I used the wood chisel, but with the angled edge in, towards the motor - using it more like a wedge-ended lever than a chisel, if that makes sense - and angling the tab up a little further. I then finished off with a set of long-nose Vice Grips, crimping it first on one nut flat and then the other (my tab ended up straddling a corner of the nut).
It sounds time-consuming, but it only took a few minutes, and nothing got scraped up or snapped off. I think it's better to just do it a little bit at a time.
Also - the protruding 'dimple' on the pressure plate lines up with the bent lockwasher tab (it only goes in one way). I use OEM steel/friction plates w/Barnett 501-29-06072 / MT-72-6 springs, having had bad luck with Barnett plates. I also stagger the little friction plate cutouts both front/back and left/right just in case it might make a difference in clutch pack balance or operation.
Sorry if I sound so superstitious about these clutches, but in my experience they just love to slip. The Barnett springs really help a lot, though; they're stiffer but not too stiff, and the metal is thicker than the OEM springs so they seem to keep their tension indefinitely.
Ray
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'74 CR125M (175cc), '75 MR175, '82 RM250Z, '08 YZ250F, '14 Zero FX electric, '14 Zero MX electric, '18 Alta MXR electric
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