Grae,
I use only non-suppressed (no resistor) plug caps with vintage ignitions, on the theory that there's not a lot of excess spark energy to throw away. I've also seen cap resistors burn out, which can be difficult to diagnose unless you're looking for it. I use non-resistor plugs for the same reason, but many of the precious-metal-electrode ones (BxEV, BxEVX, BPxEV, etc.) have been discontinued and are getting harder to find. I use BP7EVX's or BP8EV's in my Hondas, my buddy uses a BP7ES in his MT250.
Here are the NGK caps:
http://www.sudco.com/spark.html#coverI've used the LZFH (non-resistor) and LB01EP (1K resistor) caps, which both worked fine. Even though my bikes use the aluminum terminal 'nuts', I believe that removing the nuts and using the LZFH-type caps that grip the threads directly is the way to go - they hold really tight, and all the looseness/oxidation/etc. issues go away. Both are waterproof, and the seals fit real tight on the plug.
I make a hole in the middle of the plug wire strands and spread them apart in a cone shape with a small pick before putting the plug on the cable. I've had the cap screw tunnel in between the cable and the rubber sheath a bunch of times, and the cap never feels tight and sometimes starts cutting out.
Ray