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74 MT Stator condition and repar/replacement question https://vintagedirtbikeforums.alp-sys.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4708 |
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Author: | rayivers [ Fri Nov 18, 2016 5:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 74 MT Stator condition and repar/replacement question |
It seems to me your stator is (quite literally) toast. It's difficult to be 100% certain from a photo, but it looks to me like fuel/2t oil leaking from the seal may have been ignited by a sparking stator wire, leaving what looks like burnt areas in your last photo. I agree that if the chunk of case got caught up in the rotating flywheel it could very well have caused the stator and wiring damage, along with the aluminum chips (which look to be stuck to the 2t oil from the leaking seal). If it were my bike I'd throw on what I call a 'real ignition' (PVL #70032, or Honda p/n 31010-381-810 if available) and LED lighting, but otherwise MT250 stators (same all years) show up regularly on eBay. You could try cleaning up your stator and testing/repairing the coils, but it looks like that thing's been through the wringer and replacement would absolutely not be a waste of money IMO. The flywheel may be OK, but a very thorough inspection is in order before making that call. Ray |
Author: | MT250GUY [ Sat Nov 19, 2016 9:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 74 MT Stator condition and repar/replacement question |
Thanks! I bought a new (used) stator from a 76 on ebay that looks pretty good (FWIW). I do ultimately want to go LED on the bike but think it can be done with out much fuss, but first I've got to finish testing it and put the thing back together. I've tested the other electricals (switches, rectifier, etc). I figured out that the rectifier diodes are one way (despite the HORRIBLE explanation in the shop manual.) What I don't know is what readings should I get when I test the circuits? I'm getting between 3.13 and 3.28 across the wire pairs. Thanks |
Author: | rayivers [ Sun Nov 20, 2016 6:08 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 74 MT Stator condition and repar/replacement question |
Without a Honda coil-resistance spec to compare against, there's really no need for an accurate resistance measurement (which is difficult to get on coils anyway, unless you've got a really good meter). I'd make a continuity check to stator ground on all coils (they should all be grounded at one end), and read the resistance across them as well as you can. There will be a huge difference in resistance between the ignition source coil and the battery-charge coil (the damaged one on your original stator). I'd also repeat these steps on the damaged stator, which may help confirm the first set of readings and hopefully give you some indication of the original problem. Ray |
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