Vintage Dirt Bike Q & A

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 11:49 am 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 4:40 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Snellvile, Ga.
After seeing a set of wide pegs on ebay that were made specially for an Elsinore and a direct bolt on, I just had to laugh, but at the same time I figure I would pass along my pretty vast experience with wide pegs on vintage bikes.

Wide pegs can be a great thing, but they can also cause a lot of problems on a vintage bike. The original small pegs that came on the 73-78 CR250's and CR125's hurt plenty when you land off a big jump or hit a really nasty hole in the track, but for the most part they did not cause much of a problem. When the small pegs were on the bike your foot would take a lot of the impact and colapse around the peg, thus absorbing a lot of the impact and not transmitting it to the frame. As soon as you put that wide peg on you will notice all sorts of problems, the 250 with the right side peg that is bolted to the frame will bend the bolt and you can't keep it tight. You will also start noticing more sag in the pegs if you ride hard or are a heavy rider, two problems cause this, the standard 8mm pin will no longer hold up to the higher stress of the wide peg, another is twisting the lower tubes from the force, or even worse yet, tearing the mount completely loose from the frame. I have experienced all of this first hand. I also know of people that were seriously hurt when they landed off of big jumps and sheared the pegs right off the bike.

So in order to make a big peg work on a vintage bike without causing a lot of problems, here are a few things you should know and some helpful info.

1) Don't put too wide of a peg on the bike, it shortens the distance from the front of the peg to the shifter and makes it harder to get your foot under the shifter.
2) When mounting wider pegs it is a perfect time to fix those worn out peg holes and replace the pin with a 10mm one, like the pin on a modern bike with wide pegs. Don't just drill the hole out, it will get thin on the outer edge, take a grinder and work the material out towards the frame, when you get it close, then do the final drill to size, that way the pin location is back in the original position, not sagged outward. Grind the stop pads to put the peg at the correct position, I always leave them just a tad high so when they wear in they sit slightly up from level.
3) On the 73/74 CR250 you should make sure the right side peg mount that bolts on is fitted properly and weld it to the frame, don't just weld it up in the sagged position. If you are a serious rider and really punish the bike you should have the frame braced in the peg areas, prefferably by a proffesional that has experience.
4) The 74/75 CR125 is bad about tearing the peg mounts loose from the frame, it should be braced up, again, by a proffesional with experience.

Hope this helps any of you guys that are considering putting wide pegs on your vintage bike, or you guys that have already done it and are having problems. :D

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Sam Alexander

1974 Honda CR250M
1976 Honda CR250
1974 Maico MC440
1974 Maico MC250
1977 Maico AW400


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2004 9:47 pm
Posts: 112
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
First of all I'd like to welcome Sam here. I've known him for many years and, while we disagree on piston port vs reed valves, Sam really knows his stuff. A good resource to have here.

One of the first things I did with my Elsie when I bought it back in 1973 was to make the footpegs longer and a little higher. My feet were always getting wiped off the pegs by rocks and brush in desert races. I have big feet though. Took a couple pieces 1.5"x3/16 band steel and wrapped them around each peg with about a 1.5" exension and raised up about 1/2" welded them on and then ground grooves in each piece. Still on there today.

I've also seen many Elsie's at vintage races with broke off foot pegs. Even when the right peg is welded to the frame and even with novice riders who aren't putting a whole lot of stress on the bike. The area of the frame where the peg attaches is real prone to fracturing. I think perhaps due to water accumulating inside the frame in that area and rusting out from within??? Whatever the reason a lot of them break at that point and need to be reinforced!!!

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Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

Loren Davis
51y


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2004 10:20 pm
Posts: 906
Location: San Clemente, CA
Very thought-provoking. I have IMS footpegs on my 1979 CR250R and the left one has started to sag a tad...

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Michael Stiles
1979 Honda CR250R Elsinore | 2006 Husqvarna SM510R | 2007 Service Honda CR500R-AF


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 4:40 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Snellvile, Ga.
Hi Michael, the 79 CR250 has a much better setup for the peg mounts than the early CR's. Your problem could just be wear on the pad, or wear on the peg mount, could even be a worn or bent pin, all of those are pretty easy fixes.

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Sam Alexander

1974 Honda CR250M
1976 Honda CR250
1974 Maico MC440
1974 Maico MC250
1977 Maico AW400


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 4:40 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Snellvile, Ga.
Hi Loren, thanks for the kind words. I have a piston port that will rip the spokes out of the wheel and break the sprocket studs, found out first hand, if your reed makes more power than that I don't want to know about it, LOL!!! Be careful out there fighting those forrest fires, I saw they were pretty bad last night.

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Sam Alexander

1974 Honda CR250M
1976 Honda CR250
1974 Maico MC440
1974 Maico MC250
1977 Maico AW400


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2004 10:20 pm
Posts: 906
Location: San Clemente, CA
Thanks, Sam. I am going to spend some time on the bike over the summer and I'll check it out more closely.

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Michael Stiles
1979 Honda CR250R Elsinore | 2006 Husqvarna SM510R | 2007 Service Honda CR500R-AF


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