Vintage Dirt Bike Q & A

Anything and everything about Vintage Dirt Bikes! After you Register, email nathan@alp-sys.com and let me know so I can activate you.
It is currently Fri Jun 20, 2025 10:39 pm

All times are UTC - 7 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 6:00 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:49 am
Posts: 2
we bought an 75' mr175, it will run for awhile then start to bog out, like maybe loading up. i have the carb apart now cleaning it. the jet needle is on the second to bottom groove and i belive the main jet as a 22 on it. stock pipe and probally stock bore. bought it from original owner great shape also.
any ideas????
thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:49 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:49 am
Posts: 2
Dropped the jet needle down 2 spots (one above the middle) Now it runs great, probally better than it did when new. lol.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: MR175 Jetting
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:39 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:10 pm
Posts: 1010
Location: Connecticut, USA
Here's the jetting I came up with for my '75 MR175, after almost a year of trial and error:

120 main (stock is either 118 or 122)
200 air (stock)
48 pilot (stock is 52)
271005 (stock) needle in #3 (middle) position
3.0 throttle valve (stock)
air screw 3.4 turns out (my air screw is hollow - not all are)

This setup has worked well with 93 octane pump gas at temps from 40 to 75 degrees F, at basically sea level, with stock carb & pipe, ported cylinder, and high-compression head, using Bel-Ray H1R at 36:1. I have a full set of jets, throttle valves, and a 271002 MT250 needle/jet set (real lean) on hand, plus I was experimenting with Sunoco MO2X and GT Plus race gas in the summer months, so I tried pretty much EVERY combination. :) For what it's worth, the ported cylinder seemed to make the bike run leaner, while the compression increase had the opposite effect.

I hate running the air screw that far out, but if I turn it in the bike won't idle, and if I then turn in the idle speed screw to compensate, the bike 'runs on' when I shut down the throttle at high RPM.

In the hot/humid months (80 degrees plus), I was running a 118 main and a 3.5 throttle valve, with the needle at #2.

One thing to keep in mind: older bikes were jetted for lots of oil in the gas (16:1, 20:1, etc.), and tend to run a bit rich on modern 32:1 to 50:1 premix ratios.

Ray

_________________
'74 CR125M (175cc), '75 MR175, '82 RM250Z, '08 YZ250F, '14 Zero FX electric, '14 Zero MX electric, '18 Alta MXR electric


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 3:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:16 pm
Posts: 45
Location: Southern Illinois
Does turning the air screw out give more air? or more fuel? Also, should the air screw on a stock carb have an o-ring on it?

_________________
77 MR175, 89 HD Sportster
74 CR125, 00 Kawasaki ZG1000
79 XR185, 56 Cushman Eagle
03 XR650L, 79 Vespa P200E
72 Vespa Super150,
74 HD Z90


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:10 pm
Posts: 1010
Location: Connecticut, USA
Turning the air screw out (counterclockwise) on this carb allows more air through to mix with fuel from the pilot jet, making it run leaner. None of my MR175 Keihin carbs had air screw O-rings.

_________________
'74 CR125M (175cc), '75 MR175, '82 RM250Z, '08 YZ250F, '14 Zero FX electric, '14 Zero MX electric, '18 Alta MXR electric


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 7 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group