Vintage Dirt Bike Q & A

If someone could help me upload it ( the manual) to this site, I would. I simply can't send you any email. They are all rejected. I'm feeling cold and lonely,...............sigh...................

Well I think you could use www.uploading.com . I just uploaded the 73CR250 manual ( http://uploading.com/files/6cd8175d/Own ... r250m.pdf/ ) and it worked. So you could probably try that website, then nathan could download it to his computer and upload it to honda-elsinore.com .

Thanks,
Ryan

Oh, and you could post the uploading.com link to this topic as well.

In a big trial this week. Haven't had time to try. I'll see what I can do Friday or Monday, depending on how things go. Keep your head up, it will be available soon, if I have to mail a disk to nathan !

Got your payment and I will send out the nut and washer tommorow priority mail and it should be to you by sat or mon.

OK. Try this: http://uploading.com/files/bm5m31m5/mr250.pdf/

Good luck, though. I tried to test the download feature after I uploaded it and spent 30 minutes being redirected to tv directors sites and told "download expired" try again.......

File is uploaded, but you apparently can't download it unless you pay monthly fee........

Woosh -- thanks, hopefully it will be here today.

Mitchie -- I am downloading it right now it appears to be working, I will see.

Okay, I got my crank seals thursday and installed them last night. Today I am reassembling. I have all of the transmission gears installed as of now, I will be going to work on it in a little bit.

Thanks again for all the help and work so far.


-Ryan

Alright!! The manual downloaded! That is really good quality too! Thanks Mitch!

P.S. For anyone else who wants to download it (such as nathan, to upload to honda-elsinore.com), just click the link, then click free download, wait for the 60 seconds, then download!

Ok, I got the engine all assembled and installed. The flywheel nut did not come today, but I made a nut that I had work by using a tap and file(it is actually quite good, but the honda nut will be better). Has good spark, compression, and gas, but it wont start. I think the timing is off or it might be double sparking, I read another thread on here about that. Well I will have a look at it tomorow.

-Ryan

I am sorry the post office by my house can be pretty useless at times, I swear they dont like me and purposly mail my stuff late.(I bought a new bed from macys and was supposed to get a free tv mailed the rebate and was told it was late, I didnt mail it late, but they did so no tv.) When you time it if its like the mt you can use some ciggarette rolling paper and put between the points and as soon as the flywheel mark comes up to the f the paper should come out. Also I have had spark plugs work outside the bike but as soon as they are under compresion they dont work anymore, uncommon but it happens.

Yeah, that happens to me a lot with old snowmobiles and stuff. Usually I just use the spark plug cleaner on them and then they work.

Ok, well I spent most of the day kicking the thing over lol. I timed it using the light bulb and battery method stated in the manual, and bypassed the silicon rectifier, I read on here you could. It had spark sometimes and sometimes it didn't. I did get it to run for a little while and drove it across the yard, but I had the gas turned off and it soon died and it wouldn't start again. I also adjusted the float level.

So I fiddled around with connections, spark plugs, etc. I pulled the flywheel and removed all 3 coils 1 by 1 and cleaned the mounting points for good grounds etc. I put it all back together and no spark at all. So I think I might have broke a wire. Tomorow I will look at it some more. Any suggestions/tips are appreciated.

Thanks,

-Ryan

Well I got the lights mounted on the bike. The lights worked for about 10 sec then the bulb burnt out. Now I have to order one and wait longer. Question..If the headlight bulb goes does this cause the tail light to go out as well? The tail light bulb does not light now either,but that bulb looks fine.

Ok, time for an update.

We ordered points and condensor from re mx.com and I installed those. I also rewound the ignition coil by hand because some of the insulation on the wire wasn't looking very good. I got it all reassembled, and it started up and ran better but not perfect. I could at least drive it. It is running way too rich. I have the needle clip in the highest position on the carb. I think the needle and seat are worn and they possibly are not seating. But Wouldn't this cause gas to run out the overflow instead of into the engine for the too rich condition?

What is the float level supposed to be and where do I measure it from?

Where can I get a needle and seat for this? Or would it just be better to get a different mikuni carb? This one is kind of complex compared to mikunis -- lots more o rings and jets.

Thanks.

-Ryan

you can still get a float needle and seat from honda. About $37. Let bike sit for about 20 minutes with petcock still on and see if you get gas coming out of the overflow tubes. If not, your needle and seat are probably OK. What happened on mine was that the needle jet and jet needle (the needle with the clip, not the float needle) were worn and it would run overly rich and foul plugs no matter how I jetted it. Never could find new needle jet and jet needle so I finally gave up and went to a 36mm Mikuni and jetted it from scratch. Runs awesome now and honestly has more power. But one thing I didn't know at the time is that you might be able to call Sudco and get a replacement needle jet and jet needle. The Keihin on your bike uses proprietary Honda part numbers, so you can't just look up replacement parts online. The only chance you have is to call and talk to someone at Sudco and see if they have something. Those cats are good at what they do and they may be able to find replacement jet and needle without you having to buy a new carb. Also, if the slide is worn it will do this. Keep you head up and good luck!
Oh, and all you really need to do is get the float tangs level with the base of the carb (machined area where the bowl seats) when the needle just touches the seat. Manual says 20mm between the two, but I just eyeball it and it always worked fine.

I think we are going to do a mikuni conversion as well. We can get complete carburetors for under $37 lol. Did you have to do any carburetor flange modification or did it just fit right in? What about the throttle cable? What did you use for jets?

Thanks,
Ryan